Kenmore Elite Dryer Not Heating? (Here's What You Can Do)

We are so dependent on electronics today in one form or another. However, when something like your Kenmore Elite electric dryer stops heating, it can be more than frustrating.

Just the thought of what it is going to cost to call in a repair person can be discouraging. You start thinking that you might as well go out and buy a new dryer, but don’t.

Consider using this list of troubleshooting fixes for getting your Kenmore Elite Dryer back to thoroughly drying your clothes. Some fixes can actually be very simple while others can be still simple DIY projects. The savings can well be worth the hour or two of time and effort.

A blocked lint screen can keep a dryer from heating up properly. If you use softener sheets, sometimes the softener can also clog the lint screen.

Be sure to clean out the lint screen with every use. Excessive lint can cause a number of operating problems. Also, a clogged lint screen is a primary cause of dryer-related house fires.

Check the lint vent and duct also. The duct (hose) could be clogged or bent. One or the other situation can cause the dryer to not heat properly.

If the hose is both clogged and bent, this can eventually cause internal parts to burn out and need replacing. Clogged ventilation can cause excess moisture as well as ruining internal parts. It can also prevent carbon monoxide and other toxins from venting safely outdoors.

The vent and duct should be cleaned at least once per year. However, they may need to be cleaned more frequently. It depends on how often the dryer is used and the types of drying done.

The “OL” reading on the multimeter indicates that one or more of the heating system parts need replacing. To find out which ones, use the multimeter to test each one.

A typical electric dryer heating element unit inside the dryer housing. Down at the very bottom of the oblong-shaped heater box are the terminals. They are connected to the heating coils inside the removable heating element unit.

Just above the terminals on the heating element unit is the high-limit thermostat. Higher up on the heating box is the thermal cut-off fuse. In the lower-left is the blower unit. On it sits the cycling thermostat and the thermal fuse. Newer dryers may also have a thermistor on the blower unit.

While testing the heating element, you want to test the high-limit thermostat also. It is just above the heating element terminals on the housing.

The high-limit thermostat will break electrical flow to the heating element if it senses the dryer becoming too hot. An overheated dryer is a fire hazard. The thermostat generally reacts to a clogged vent blocking airflow.

Generally, if the heating element needs replacing, the high-limit thermostat does not. However, many people do replace both of them at the same time. If the heating element is okay, then this thermostat may be the reason the dryer is not heating.

Place the multimeter probes on the two terminals of the thermostat. The reading should show near 0 ohms. If the multimeter reads “OL,” then the high-limit thermostat needs to be replaced.

A new heating element can be purchased with its metal housing or without its housing. The cost is about the same, $15-$25 purchased online. However, if you need to purchase the parts from a local store, expect to pay two to three times more.

Just the coils might be replaced if a broken coil is obvious. The exterior terminal unit is pushed into the housing, and the coils and terminal unit slide out. Then the new coils and terminal units are slid back into the reusable housing. Again, there is little, if any, difference in cost to purchase the entire housed unit.

A high-limit thermostat can cost as little as $6-$7 purchased online. Often it is purchased in a kit with other heating system parts for less than $25.

The cycling, or operating, thermostat is installed on the blower unit. Generally, it is located close to the white thermal fuse unit. It cycles the heat source on and off to keep the drum temperature steady.

Place one probe on the red wire metal end at the thermostat’s terminal. Place the other probe on the red-white wire metal end at the terminal.

Like the high-limit thermostat, the multimeter reading should be near 0 ohms. If the multimeter reads “OL,” then the cycling thermostat needs to be replaced.

If the high-limit thermostat is not working, the thermal cut-off fuse will cut flow to the heating element. The fuse is a back-up safety feature. If the high-limit thermostat tested no continuity, the thermal cut-off fuse may also be blown.

The thermal cut-off fuse is usually located on the heating box itself, above the heating element. On some models, it may be located closer to the high-limit thermostat.

Place the multimeter probe on the red-white wire metal end at the fuse terminal. Place the other probe on the red wire metal end at the terminal. The multimeter reading should be near 0 ohms. If the multimeter reads “OL,” then the thermal cut-off fuse needs to be replaced.

Related Questions

Why is my dryer so noisy?

Usually, this is caused by a noisy drum. It may have worn out glides or a torn drum seal.

How do I clean my dryer vent when it goes up through the roof?

First, you need to vacuum out the vent and duct attached to the dryer itself. Unless the vent and duct are really clogged, your vacuum’s tube and attachments should do the job.Then, you will need to safely access the roof to locate your vent opening with its guard. Wear a helmet and soft-soled boots or shoes. If access is by ladder, be sure that you have a safe, sturdy ladder.Remove the vent guard and any lint clinging to it. Use a long vent trap brush to clean out the vent. You keep inserting the brush until lint is no longer drawn out. Clean the exterior of the vent as well.