Whirlpool Ultimate Care II Washer Won't Spin? (Fix It Now!)

Heather Robbins
by Heather Robbins

The Whirlpool Ultimate Care II Washer is the modern version of the classic style top-loading washer. Even though it’s a bit more modernized, there is still a common problem that most consumers experience: it may have issues during the spin cycle. So, what happens when your Whirlpool Care II Washer won’t spin? What causes this?

If your Whirlpool Care II Ultimate Care Washer doesn’t spin, this might be due to a malfunction of the lid switch, motor coupling, or an issue with the clutch. Other potential problems may include a faulty transmission or overall motor failure.

Use this article to guide you through the issues mentioned above so that you can correctly diagnose your washer. From there, you can either fix the problem yourself by following the steps for the relevant section, or you can call a professional for help. Let’s get started!

Why Won’t Your Whirlpool Ultimate Care II Washer Spin?

The most likely reason for your washer to refuse to spin is a blocked drain hose. One thing to check is that the drain hose is not over 96 inches from the ground. Even excess suds can create issues with the spin and drain cycle. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and measure the amount of detergent accurately and bear in mind that you’ll need to use less if you’re in a soft water area.

Lid Switch

When a Whirlpool Washer doesn’t spin, it’s almost always an issue with the lid switch. If this is the case, you won’t be able to hear the motor running when the appliance is in the spin cycle. To check the lid, first, unplug the washer.

Then remove the two screws securing the control panel in place -there’s one on each side. You may be able to locate them on the front, you may need to snap off two covers before they’re visible, or they may even be found on the back ).

Checking The Lid Switch

  • Open the control panel up with the hinge. At this point, you’ll see a plug attached to the case with three wires – detach it.
  • Use your ohmmeter. Next, making sure the lid is closed, use an ohmmeter to check whether you have a connection between the two outside wires on the female plug end (the one which is still connected to the case after unplugging. If there’s no connection, it means that the lid switch is faulty and will need to be replaced.
  • Replace the lid switch. To do this, detach the two clips on the sides of the case, below the control panel. The lid switch and the wires going to the plug should be visible. Detach the wires and install the new lid switch.

This will probably have solved your Whirlpool washer spin issue, but if not, follow through with each section until you find the problem.

Motor Coupling

Motor coupling is a common cause of Whirlpool washers spinning problems and often results in damage. If this is the culprit, the washer won’t wash or spin. Let’s look in more detail.

Is The Motor Coupling Broken?

One clue might be that your laundry is still dripping wet after the spin cycle. To be sure that you have a broken motor coupler in your Whirlpool or Kenmore washing machine, take the following steps.

  • Set the dial to the typical wash cycle. If the appliance fills to the correct level and starts working correctly, your spin issue is not caused by a broken motor coupler.
  • Reset to the spin cycle. If it fills to the correct level and you can hear the motor running, but there’s no agitation in the drum, reset the dial to the spin cycle. If the washer then drains the water while you hear the motor working, but there’s no spinning, it is probable that the motor coupler is damaged and needs replacing.

Fix The Motor Coupling

You’ll need to pay around $20 for a replacement whirlpool motor coupler to do this yourself. If you call a technician to do the repair, expect to pay in the region of $120.

  • Remove the bolt. Take the bolt out of the agitator inside the washing machine drum. Take out the three silver bolts from below the washing machine drum.
  • Disconnect the wiring. Ensure that you disconnect the wiring assembly from the drive. Once the bolts are removed,  the motor will drop out.
  • Remove the screws from the clips. Unscrew the two metal screws from the clips which secure the assembly. Once you’ve removed the screws, you’ll see that the coupler consists of 2 plastic pieces with three prongs and a rubber coupling.
  • Put it all back together. Follow the above steps in reverse order to replace the faulty coupler with the replacement.

The Clutch

When the appliance only spins slowly or doesn’t spin at all, it could be a clutch problem. Top loading direct drive washers use a clutch and a transmission, in much the same way as a car. When the transmission and the clutch engage, the clutch spins the drum, and excess water is taken out of the laundry when the wash cycle finishes.

Certain internal parts of the clutch, such as the cam driver or the spring, can become worn or damaged. When this happens, the drum won’t spin. Before exchanging the appliance’s clutch, ensure that it is the root cause of the problem, rather than the lid switch or the transmission.

Check Your Washer Clutch

  • Disconnect your washer from the main power supply and remove the screws. Remove the screws which hold the control panel in place at the top of the machine. These screws can be located on each end of the panel, at the rear of the appliance, or behind plastic covers that can be lifted off each control panel’s end.
  • Release the spring clips. Tilt the control panel up and lift off the washer. If you can’t, locate the screws, carefully insert a putty knife under each end of the panel. This will release it from the spring clips that hold it in place.
  • Check for the lid switch wire. Look carefully for the lid switch wire harness that plugs into a connector. This will be protruding from the top of the washer cabinet. Release the harness from the connector.
  • Strip the wire. Take a 6- to 8-inch piece of insulated 12-gauge solid THHN electrical wire. Using a wire stripper, carefully remove 1/4 inch of the THHN insulation from the wire’s exterior. Locate the end of the wire harness which you previously disconnected from the connector. Typically the harness will have three round openings.
  • Secure your wire. Position one end of the wire in one of the outside openings and the other end wire into the other external opening. The central space remains empty. Using electrical tape, secure the wire in position. The electrical wire will bypass the lid switch, and the washer will operate even when the lid is not closed.
  • Reset the dial control. Ensure the washer control panel is switched to the ‘off’ position.  Reconnect the appliance to the mains. Reset the control dial to ‘spin’ and start the spin cycle.  Open the lid to check what’s happening in the drum.  If the washer is spinning as it should, the fault could lie with the washer rather than the clutch.
  • Disconnect the power supply. Leave the bypass wire in place inside the harness.
  • Locate the two spring clips that secure the top of the washer to the washer’s rear panel. Use a flathead screwdriver to insert into the springs. Press the screwdriver so you propel the clips forward towards the front of the cabinet to release the clips.
  • Position yourself in front of the washer. Using both hands, pull the top of the cabinet towards you as you lift it away and place it to one side. Locate the clutch drum, which will be below the washtub. It’s a circular metal disc fixed to the top of the gear housing, immediately behind the pump.
  • Reconnect the appliance to the mains socket. Ask a helper to rotate the control dial to the spin setting and see what happens inside the drum. Using a flashlight, observe the clutch drum while your helper pulls out on the dial.  If the clutch drum spins but the wash drum doesn’t rotate, it means the clutch is the culprit. If both the clutch and the washtub won’t spin, the transmission may need replacing.

Other Potential Causes

Other possible causes of the appliance washing but not spinning are the timer, the water level control, and, as mentioned above, the transmission. If the timer or the water level control is faulty, you won’t hear the motor trying to run during the spin cycle.

An issue with the timer is unlikely but can’t be ruled out. The same goes for the water level control. However, if you can’t hear the motor running when the washer is in spin, a problem with these components can’t be completely ruled out.

In Summary

A washer that won’t go onto the spin cycle can be extremely frustrating, especially if you’re trying to wash your clothing in a hurry. However, the most common issue tends to be a faulty lid switch. Nonetheless, by following the steps in this guide, you can diagnose and fix your washer yourself to save on the expensive costs of hiring a professional. Good luck on your DIY journey!

Heather Robbins
Heather Robbins

Heather is a passionate writer who loves anything DIY. Growing up, she learned everything from home repairs to design, and wants to share her tips with you. When she's not writing, she's usually hiking or searching for her next DIY project.

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