How To Fix A Waterlogged Galvanized Pressure Tank (Do This!)

Galvanized pressure tanks are one of three types of tanks used with well water systems. You’re more likely to find these steel tanks in homes built before the 1970s. Nowadays, newer tank models and designs have made galvanized versions less popular.

People also refer to these tanks as air-over-water tanks. This is because the pressurized air and the water inside the chamber meet directly; there’s nothing between them. Although, in some galvanized tanks, you can find a floating wafer between the water and air.

Galvanized pressure tanks are usually larger than newer models yet have similar capacities. Therefore, they often tend to cycle more often and are prone to getting waterlogged. Both of these issues can lead to burning out your pump.

As water enters the tank, it pushes up against the air, compressing it until it reaches the cut-off pressure. This is pre-set, usually around 60psi in residential applications, but you can adjust it to fit your specific situation.

This process creates the necessary pressure for your home’s water system. To work correctly, a galvanized tank relies on three primary parts.

The first is the air volume control, which mounts to the side of the tank, typically about halfway. It releases air as water fills the tank, and when the water reaches it, it floats up, closing the valve. This piece helps maintain the ratio of air and water inside the chamber.

The next two parts are the snifter valve and the bleeder valve. Snifter valves allow air into the piping, letting water drain back to the well.

Bleeder valves feature a flap that keeps water in when the pump’s running because the pressure keeps it closed. But then, when the pump goes off, the flap can open, draining the water back into the well. You’ll typically find the bleeder valve on the second piece of drop pipe, draining water from the first piece.

If you hear a lot of clicking noises when you’re using water in your house, it’s likely the pressure switch. The pressure switch features contacts that sense the cut-off and cut-in pressure levels, telling the pump to turn off or on. The contacts function by forming a complete electrical circuit when closed, sending electricity to the pump.

When the contacts separate, it breaks the circuit, resulting in no electricity to the pump. Therefore, the pump knows when to go on or off based on the electrical current.

If your tank becomes waterlogged, it throws off the pressure in the tank. Therefore, the pressure switch responds by turning off and on quickly and repeatedly. This rapid process results in continual clicking sounds as the contacts open and close.

Consequently, when the electrical circuit opens and closes over and over, it also makes your pump start and stop frequently.

If you have a galvanized pressure tank, consider getting an air-volume device to attach to the tank. This device controls the tank’s air volume, helping ensure you don’t end up with too much or too little.

Still, things happen, and if the water absorbs too much air, you’ll end up with a waterlogged tank. Your pump will start running pretty much every time you use water.

Before your pump burns out or you rush to buy a new tank, try this first.

Diaphragm pressure tanks feature one chamber for air and a separate one for water. A rubber diaphragm attaches to the tank’s side, separating the air and water. The diaphragm rises when the pump pushes water into the tank.

Once the diaphragm reaches the air chamber, it triggers a sensor that turns off the pump. If the diaphragm comes loose, water can get into the air chamber. This causes your water pressure to drop significantly, and you would need a new tank.

In some cases, the diaphragm can fold on itself, sending the pump incorrect readings, leading to motor burn-out.

Bladder pressure tanks also have separate chambers for air and water. They feature a self-contained bladder that fills with water, expands, and triggers a sensor that turns on the pump.

These tanks typically last longer than diaphragm versions since you don’t have to worry about the bladder folding or coming loose. Also, since it’s self-contained, you could just replace the bladder if that’s where the problem lies. You wouldn’t need to replace the entire tank.

Related Questions

Do I have to fix or replace a waterlogged pressure tank immediately?

If you address a waterlogged tank quickly, you can typically keep minor problems from turning into huge ones. If your waterlogged tank leads to other issues, like a failed pump, ensure you fix both. If you only replace the pump, you’ll still have a waterlogged tank that will likely burn out the new pump. It’s also essential to be familiar with any warranties related to your system. Most agreements won’t cover pump issues and other problems resulting from a waterlogged tank. Therefore, make sure to handle problems in a timely fashion. 

How much does a new pressure tank cost?

A new pressure tank for residential use will likely cost between $150 and $250. But, then, you’d need to pay about another $200 for standard installation. If you have any unusual circumstances or fancy hook-ups, your total price could shoot up to $1,000 or more. But, of course, the final price depends on factors like the tank’s capacity, brand, and special considerations. If you have a bladder tank, you can opt to purchase a new bladder for between $20 and $250. If you replace your well pump and tank at the same time, it can run between $800 and $1,500.