Why Electrical Outlets Don't Work: Tips to Troubleshot and Fix

Dennis Howard
by Dennis Howard

Electrical wall outlets are some unobtrusive but important parts of our home. Think of how many items depend on your electrical outlets to provide power consistently. We hardly give them a thought as we pug and unplug various devices expecting them to work. However, it can be frustrating and confusing when one or more electrical outlets in your home quit working.

In general, electrical outlets quit working for several reasons. The outlet may be served by a safety device such as a GFCI that is tripped. The circuit may be overloaded, and the circuit breaker has opened. In some cases, electrical outlets can be damaged and fail to contact the plug on your appliance or device.

In any case, you need to understand how your electrical system works and know what to look for when an electrical outlet fails. Our research indicated that the following are the most common causes of an electrical outlet or outlets quitting working. We have also made recommendations on how to repair or resolve the issues.

Do You Need to Hire an Electrician?

Get free, zero-commitment quotes from pro contractors near you.

A Word of Caution

Before we start looking for the cause of problems with your outlets, it is important to point out the dangers of working with the electrical system in your home. By and large, a properly installed electrical system that meets building codes is inherently safe. However, trying to diagnose and repair a fault in the electrical system comes with some hazards

The electrical system in your home typically delivers voltages between 120 and 240 volts. Either of these voltages at the amperes available in the system can cause serious damage and injury. Great care must be exercised when working around bare or exposed wiring. If you are not comfortable dealing with these kinds of hazards, you should call a licensed electrician to make the needed repairs.

You Should Understand the Parts of Your Electrical System

There are only a few basic components of the electrical system in your home. A general understanding of these components and how they fit into the system is important. Knowing these terms and how they work will make diagnosing and fixing a problem with your electrical outlets much easier.

The Electrical Service Panel

Your electrical service from your utility provider enters your home at the electrical service panel. Typically, this panel holds the master circuit breaker and the individual circuit breakers for each circuit in your home.

The master circuit breaker is rated for the total amperage that is delivered to your home. The master circuit breaker will be labeled accordingly. This label is 100, 200, or 400 amps.

The individual circuit breakers that protect the various circuits running through your home can vary greatly. Most circuits have breakers rated at 15 amps. Some circuits may require 20 or 30 amp breakers depending on the equipment they service, such as air conditioner condensers or electric cookstoves.

Electrical Home Wiring

To deliver electrical power to various places in your home, electrical wiring is used. Today, most of this wiring is bundled together in a product generically termed Romex. Romex can contain two, three, or more wires depending on the size of the wire and the power delivered. In most cases, 12 or 14 gauge wire is used for most home electrical wiring.

The wire runs from the service panel to each zone in your home. Electrical power is distributed to light fixtures, switches, and power outlets. The electrical building code specifies a wide array of minimum standards to ensure that your home is safe and has enough electrical capacity for most needs.

Wall Outlets

The main distribution point that most of us know is the duplex wall outlet. A duplex wall outlet provides two plugs at each location. Your local building code specifies how many electrical outlets are required in every room in your home and where they must be placed.

Most outlets are simple devices with three openings. Two of these are slotted openings. One side is the not wire that delivers the power, and the other slotted opening is the neutral that returns the power to the service panel. The third opening is a round hole into which the ground to your appliance is plugged.

There are some specialized types of outlets that you may see. Some outlets may be switched to allow the power to the outlet to be turned on and off. In some areas, the electrical building code specifies that the outlets on the circuit be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter or GFCI. These GFCI’s give your further protection from an electrical shock in areas where water may be present such as bathrooms and kitchens.

Related Guide: Are Ungrounded Outlets Safe?

The Most Common Causes of a Non-Working Electrical Outlet

If you have an electrical outlet that isn’t working, it is important to diagnose and repair the problem quickly. In general, our electrical systems are safe. However, if a problem occurs in the wiring or the parts of the system, there is always the potential for an electric arc or fire. Keeping the parts of your electrical system in good working order creates a safe environment in your home.

Finding a problem with a non-working outlet is often a bit of a detective story. You must work systematically to find the problem before you can make the repair. We recommend these steps as the best way to perform a systematic diagnosis of a broken or failed electrical outlet.

A Broken or Damaged Electrical Outlet

It is not a regular occurrence, but electrical outlets do get damaged. Damage can happen if something strikes or falls against the outlet causing it to crack. Many times, jerking on an electrical cord plugged into an outlet can damage the outlet. Vacuum cleaners are one of the culprits behind this type of damage.

If the electrical outlet quits working but other outlets in the circuit continue to work, it is a good bet that the outlet itself is at fault. You should start with a careful visual examination of the outlet. Often you will see a crack on the outlet itself. If there is any damage to the outlet, it should be replaced even if it is still working.

If there is no externally visible damage, you should remove the cover plate to inspect the rest of the outlet. Most duplex outlets have a single screw between the plugs that hold the outlet cover in place. Remove the screw and outlet cover plate carefully and set them aside.

You may need a flashlight to see into the box that holds the electrical outlet. Take care not to put your fingers or tools into the box or risk an electrical arc that can cause injury. Look at the back parts of the outlet and the wire connections. Potential problems include:

  • A cracked or broken body on the electrical outlet is possible. This may be hard to see without removing the outlet from the box.
  • Loose or disconnected wires may cause the outlet to not work properly. Look carefully where the wires connect to the outlet and make sure all the connections look tight. Any loose wire ends are a sign of a problem.
  • Check for signs of overheating or arcing on the outlet. Scorch marks or burn marks should be investigated by a licensed electrician and repaired immediately.

Replacing a damaged duplex outlet is a job that most homeowners can easily accomplish. If you follow these steps, you can have a broken or damaged outlet back in service quickly and safely.

Step 1: Work Safely

The most important safety aspect is to make sure that there is no electrical power to the outlet. This is easily accomplished by flipping the circuit breaker that protects the outlet to the off position. Don’t take for granted that you have turned off the power. Test the outlet with a circuit tester to ensure that the power is off to the outlet before going further.

Step 2: Uninstall the Broken Outlet

Remove the cover plate on the outlet. The duplex outlet is usually held in the box by two screws. Locate the screws and remove them carefully. You can pull the outlet from the box at this point. Grasp the outlet by the top and bottom. Never grasp the outlet on the sides where the electrical connections are made. Gently pull the outlet from the box as far as possible.

Step 3: Remove the Wires from the Old Outlet

Before you start removing wires, we suggest taking some photos of the wiring with your cell phone. This will give you a ready reference for replacing the wiring on the new outlet when the time comes.

Remove the wires from the screw terminals and move them to one side and out of the way to give yourself room to work. Inspect the wiring and make sure there are no indications of electrical arcing or burning. If you find any evidence of overheating or arcing, you should call a licensed electrician to do an inspection on your wiring.

Step 4: Install the New Outlet

Attach the wires to the new outlet in the same pattern attached to the old outlet. There is a right and wrong way for this to be done. The black wire should always connect to the brass screw on the outlet. The white wire attaches to the silver screw. The green wire connects to the green ground screw on the outlet.

The wires should have small loops that curve around the screws. The wire curve should go around the screw in a clockwise direction so that the screw doesn’t force the wire out as you tighten.

Step 5: Replace the New Outlet in the Box

Carefully fold the wires back into the box as you push the new outlet into place. Line up the screws with the holes in the box and tighten them until the outlet is snug and centered in the opening. Replace the outlet cover.

Step 7: Test the Outlet

Turn the circuit breaker back on and use your circuit tester to check the outlet you just replaced. Make sure that the polarity is correct and that both outlets have power. Check the other outlets or lights in the circuit and make sure they work as well.

Look for Bad Stab in Connections

Some electricians use the stab in connectors instead of using the screw terminals on electrical outlets and switches. These are small holes on the back of the switch or outlet that allow a bare electrical wire to be pushed in to make contact. Hence the name “stab in.”

These connections can become loose or detached entirely over time. Checking these connections requires you to remove the outlet or switch and manually check the connection. TO fix a faulty stab in connection, follow these steps.

Step 1: Turn off all the Power to the Circuit

Move the circuit breaker on the circuit to the off position. Before you do any work, use your circuit tester to make sure that the power to the outlet is off.

Step 2: Remove the Outlet from the Box

Remove the outlet from the box and examine the wires pushed into the outlet on the back. Gently tug on each wire to make sure it is snuggly seated in the outlet. If the wires move in and out, you should reseat the wires.

Step 3: Reseating Stab in Wiring

There are slots with each stab in the connector. Pushing a small flat head screwdriver into the slot will free the wire from the stab in the connector. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, or you can crack the housing of the outlet.

Step 4: Trim the Wire and Make a New Connection

If you must make a new connection, trim the old bare wire off and strip the insulation to make new connections. Most stab in outlets have a gauge on the back of the outlet showing the correct length of insulation to remove.

Step 5: Insert the bare wire firmly into the Outlet

Push the bare end of the wire back into the stab in connector on the outlet. The insulation on the wire should stop almost flush with the back of the outlet. Tug gently on the wire to make sure it is fully engaged with the connector.

Step 6: Replace the Outlet and Cover

Reinstall the outlet and replace the outlet cover. Turn on the power at the circuit breaker and use your circuit tester to check the outlet.

Faulty Switch Operated Outlets

Switched outlets are not as common in newer homes as they were years ago. Switched outlets allowed floor lamps or table lamps to be controlled with a wall switch. If you have an outlet in an older home, you may have a switched outlet. Switches can fail causing the outlet to become non-working.

The first remedy is to operate the switch and make sure it hasn’t been inadvertently turned off. If operating the switch doesn’t restore power to the outlet, you have deeper problems. These problems can include a bad switch or an open circuit breaker.

In most cases, it is best to consult with a licensed electrician if there is a problem with a switched outlet. While replacing a light switch is often a simple job, switched outlets often use more complex wiring than a simple light switch.

Check for a Tripped GFCI in the Circuit with the Non-Working Outlet

Many homes now have GFCI outlets routinely installed in some electrical circuits. A GFCI outlet can be wired to protect a series of other outlets where water may be present. Most bathroom, laundry and kitchen electrical circuits now are required to be protected by a GFCI circuit.

If more than one outlet in your home suddenly quits working, the most common suspect is a GFCI outlet. When the GFCI outlet is tripped, the protection circuit shuts down the electrical service. This will cause all the outlets on that circuit to be without electrical power.

Step 1: Find the GFCI Outlet in the Circuit

Again, this may take a bit of detective work. Look for an outlet that has several buttons on the front of the outlet. Newer GFCI outlets will have a red LED that blinks if the protection circuit has been tripped. Older GFCI outlets may have a yellow LED or no LED at all.

The two buttons on your GFCI outlet should be labeled “TEST” and “RESET.”

Step 2: Check the RESET button

If the GFCI protection circuit has been tripped, the RESET button on the GFCI outlet will be popped out. To perform a quick reset, press the RESET button back in until you hear it click. The LED light should stop blinking, and power should be restored to the circuit.

Step 3: Check the Outlets

Use your circuit tester to check each of the outlets in the circuit protected by the GFCI outlet. All the outlets should now be working. If resetting the GFCI outlet doesn’t restore power, the GFCI outlet itself may be defective. In this instance, we recommend that you call a licensed electrician to test and replace the GFCI circuit breaker if necessary.

Check the Service Panel for A GFCI Circuit Breaker

Many newer homes forego GFCI outlets in favor of GFCI circuit breakers in the service panel box. GFCI circuit breakers serve a dual role as both a traditional circuit breaker and a GFCI protection.

Locate your service panel and check for a tripped circuit breaker or GFCI breaker on the panel. GFCI circuit breakers are clearly labeled and easy to identify. If you find any breaker in the center position, it has been tripped for some reason. GFCI circuit breakers have a TEST button but no RESET button. To reset a GFCI circuit breaker, follow these steps.

Step 1: Locate the GFCI Circuit Breaker

Check your service panel for a circuit breaker that is tripped. A tripped circuit breaker will be in the center position and should be easily identifiable.

Step 2: Reset the GFCI Circuit Breaker

It is easy and safe to reset a GFCI circuit breaker tripped and in the center position. Flip the circuit breaker lever to the OFF position and let it sit for a few seconds. Then flip the Circuit Breaker lever to the fully on position. The circuit breaker should remain in the ON position.

Step 3: Test the Outlets

If the GFCI circuit breaker remains in the ON position, it is time to check the outlets in the circuit. User your circuit tester to check for voltage and polarity at each outlet in the circuit.

Step 4: A GFCI Circuit Breaker that Won’t Reset

You may find that as soon as you reset the GFCI circuit breaker, it immediately trips again. This is a symptom of bigger problems in the circuit or a faulty GFCI breaker. Our recommendation at this point is to call a qualified electrician to find the cause of the problem and make the necessary repairs.

A Tripped Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter May be Your Problem

Newer homes are often equipped with arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCI). These breakers are designed to act as normal circuit breakers and detect situations where an arc occurs in your electrical system. This helps control the danger of fires when an electrical arc occurs.

However, AFCI circuit breakers have a reputation for what is termed “nuisance tripping.” Many AFCI circuit breakers are so sensitive that some normal fluctuations in electrical flow through the circuit will cause them to trip. Resetting and testing an AFCI circuit breaker is not hard if you follow a few simple steps.

Step 1: Locate Your Service Panel

Locate and open your service panel and inspect the circuit breakers. AFCI circuit breakers will be clearly identified by a label on the breaker. AFCI circuit breakers will also have a TEST button.

Step 2: Check for Tripped Breakers

A tripped AFCI breaker will have the lever on the breaker in the center position. If you find any breakers in this position, the breaker has activated for some reason.

Step 3: Reset the AFCI Breaker

Resetting an AFCI breaker is much like resetting a GFCI breaker or a traditional circuit breaker. Flip the circuit breaker lever to the OFF position and let it sit for a few seconds. Flip the circuit breaker lever to the ON position. The circuit breaker should stay in the ON position if all things are normal.

Step 4: Check your Outlets

If the AFCI circuit breaker stays in the on position, check the outlets in the circuit. Use your circuit tester to check for power and polarity on the outlets. All things being equal, your electrical outlets should be back in full operation.

Step 5: The AFCI Circuit Breaker Trips Immediately

If the AFCI circuit breaker trips immediately after a reset, there is more to your problem. You could have a short circuit in the wiring. An AFCI circuit breaker can fail and need replacing. In any case, we suggest you consult with a licensed electrician to further diagnose and repair any problems in the electrical system.

What is a Circuit Tester, and Why Do I Need One?

No homeowner should be without a simple circuit tester in their toolbox or drawer. These little gadgets allow you to test for power in electrical circuits, establish that the correct polarity is available, and protect yourself when testing.

Circuit Testers come in different styles that include:

  • Simple Two Wire Circuit Testers – The simplest circuit tester has two wires connected to a nonconducting plastic housing. There is a black wire and a white wire. Each wire has a metal end inserted into outlets or touched to the connectors on switches. If electrical power is present, an LED light in the plastic housing will illuminate.
  • Plug-In Power and Polarity Testers – More sophisticated circuit tester look like the male end of an extension cord with no cord attached. The back of the plug-in-circuit tester has several LEDs. When the tester is plugged into an outlet, these LEDs can indicate several conditions such as no power, 120 or 240-volt power, and the state of the polarity of the circuit.
  • Voltmeter or Multi-Meter – Many homeowners choose to invest in a voltmeter or multi-meter that can be used to check the state of electrical circuits. These devices typically have a wider range of options than a simple circuit tester. There is a bit of a learning curve associated with voltmeters and multi-meters.

No matter which options you choose, you should have some sort of circuit tester in your home tool kit. Even simple testers can save your frustration and keep you safe when diagnosing electrical problems.

Do You Need to Hire an Electrician?

Get free, zero-commitment quotes from pro contractors near you.

Keeping the Power On

As or homes age, so do the systems inside. Your electrical system is no different. Many of the components of the electrical system age and will eventually fail. Accidents happen as well, causing damage to outlets. Diagnosing a faulty outlet is not difficult and can be addressed by most homeowners. Hopefully, our tips and tricks will help you keep the power on in your home.

Dennis Howard
Dennis Howard

Dennis is a retired firefighter with an extensive background in construction, home improvement, and remodeling. He worked in the trades part-time while serving as an active firefighter. On his retirement, he started a remodeling and home repair business, which he ran for several years.

More by Dennis Howard

Next