Whirlpool Duet Washer Error Codes (What They Mean and How to Resolve)

Washing machines have come a long way in a short time. It was not all that long ago that they had basic functions and could really only perform certain washing tasks. But they really are quite something now. You can program specific wash types, set timer schedules, even access these options and other controls through your smartphone.

At the forefront of the appliance game is Whirlpool. They are one of the most recognizable brands on the market today, delivering everything from washers and dryers to dishwashers and more. From time to time, you may find an error message on your Whirlpool Duet washer. These can range from motor control board fault to dispenser fault and plenty of things in between. The error code displayed on the screen is what allows you or the technician to determine what the issue is.

Before we get started, it helps to take a step back. Whirlpool Duet washers have digital LED displays. Most of the time, this is to display time, especially on cycles. But they serve another purpose and that I to display error codes.

Error codes are used to communicate any issues that the washing machine may be experiencing. Not every modern washing machine has this option, meaning the user would have to troubleshoot the issue on their own to find a solution.

Thankfully, these codes make it easier to figure out what’s going on. It is always advised that you keep your owner’s manual as well in case you have any questions that need to be asked.

The good thing about these error codes is that Whirlpool makes them easily discernable. There will be no question that something is wrong when one of these error codes flashes. The error and fault codes use E# and F# numbers.

The F error is meant to describe issues with the washer system while the E error defines a specific part within the washer that may be having issues. We will get into them further on, but your F1, F2, and F6 codes all relate to the main control. F3 is related to the washer sensor while F5 faults are door switch and door lock related.

Having a basic understanding of these error codes and what they may relate to can help even the most amateur of DIYers not only determine a resolution but come to one in short order.

Before we get into the F# and E# errors, there is one that you may see commonly. The SUDS error indicates that there is an issue with soap suds. Basically, the washer determined that there are too many soap suds to properly drain them all away.

You would deal with too many suds in your washing machine when using a type that is not high-efficiency. It could also be that you put too much soap into the washer. Finally, if the issue keeps reoccurring, it may be due to a pressure sensing or drain pump issue within the washer.

Any time that you have a control fault, it is never a good thing to deal with. A main control issues is one of the most serious that there is and you may not be able to do a whole lot. Unplug the washer for one minute, and then put your washing machine through a diagnostic test.

Look at the results to see what you get. Doing a diagnostic test can, in some cases, reset the control. In the best case that just means you have a little more time before it will stop working again. Use that time wisely.

On the other side of the coin, the F1E2 error means that the main control board has tried to reset more than once. Not only has it tried to reboot multiple times, but it is not liking the results. You can count on any main control fault issues to be anything but simple to replace.

When you start to get into the F2 and F3 areas, you can see a common theme. This is where an individual component may be working improperly or has failed altogether. Thankfully, testing for these is relatively simple

The most common F2 error is the F2E3 cycle fault error. This is one of those rare codes that you really never should see or experience. That said, seeing it means that there is something with the cycle that you have selected. Put it through the proper UI tests and check each of the connections associated with the control. It is entirely possible that you will need a brand-new main control board.

Your washing machine works by using either cold or hot water to clean the clothes. When the user selects hot, it takes some time before hot water comes out of the washer. When you see this display, it means that the temperature of the water has fallen outside of the preset range (23 degrees to 217 degrees).

Make sure that you check all of the wire connections leading out from the control board to the water temp sensor. It is entirely possible that a loose connection is the cause of the issue. Also, check to make sure that the temp sensor is properly connected. It is a common error for these to become unplugged where the sensor connection meets the back of the drum.

Whenever you see an F error, you can rest assured that it has to do with a door issue. There are three primary faults having to do with the washer door: switch fault, lock fault, and unlock fault. When the washer isn’t properly closed, it will not move forward with the load.

An F5E1 error indicates that the door switch may be bad. There are more than a few causes for this error. It could simply be that the door switch is bad but it could also be that you haven’t opened the washer door for at least 3 cycles. Likewise, if you try to start a cycle with the door open, it will not begin the washing sequence.

The F5E2 and E3 error codes have to do with the lock and unlock fault. When you get the door lock fault code, it means that your washer tried to lock the door and couldn’t, failing at least 6 times before coming back. Triggering the E2 code could also mean that one of the tabs on the machine door’s inserts failed him.

Finally, there is the door unlock fault or F5E3. This is meant to indicate that the door could not unlock. You may not be able to attempt removal until the tabs and inserts are in one piece, are properly aligned with the door lock and its hole, and that there is nothing obstructing or jamming the lock.

When you get to F6 errors, you are going to find that there is a communication fault. That means that your control board and the user interface are not responding to one another. Make sure that you check all the appropriate connections first and foremost. It could also be that the main control board has failed and requires replacing.

The F7 error, meanwhile, indicates a motor or motor control board fault. Just make sure that the inner drum of the washing machine moves freely because there can be magnetic resistance created, though not a lot.

These are your individual component errors. An F8E0 indicates there is a problem with the steam valve. An F8E1 error indicates that the water fill fault is active, which could indicate that the valves are not turned n.

F8E2 and E3 are your dispenser and overflow fault codes. The latter is especially not fun because if it doesn’t pick up on the fact that your washer is about to overflow, you could be in for a major mess. Error codes may allow you to resolve the issue on your own. At the very least you can pass along the code to a technician who can implement a fix.