How To Build A Concrete Drainage Channel (Quickly & Easily!)

There are many essential aspects to owning a property. One of them is proper drainage. When it comes to preventative measures for your home, it may be the single most important thing you can tend to. Water that is allowed to build up can cause major damage to garages, basements, and foundations.

That is why it is imperative to have a proper drainage channel. The process is not easy but can be done. You will need to dig a trench, set the channel drain, and pour your concrete. That is simplifying the process but is all that needs to be done to ensure that you have proper drainage away from your home.

Of all the things that a home needs to remain protected, a proper drainage channel is very high on the list. Water is the enemy of your property and you need to make sure that it does not have the opportunity to pool and build up.

Standing water that is allowed to sit unattended can have major consequences. Not only can it result in damaged materials like wood, but it can create major issues with things like the home’s foundation. Do not allow the opportunity for water to wreak havoc if you don’t have to. Preventative measures, like a concrete drainage channel, can go a long way towards keeping you protected.

Before you can install your concrete drainage channel, it has to be able to drain somewhere. Most homes will have some kind of underground drain that runs away from the property. If you don’t have any system in place, a drainage channel may not be the most effective option.

What makes a concrete drainage channel such a good option is that it works for patios, garages, and driveways. Since those are the areas where water tends to accumulate the most, it is a handy place to put your drainage channel.

Now that you know where you will be doing your work, it is time to get the tools for the job. All told, you are looking at about $100 for the entire project, though it can vary from store to store. Worst case, you will come in at around $150 for a small area. The more spots you do, the larger the costs are.

The most expensive material is the channel drain. Also known as a perimeter or surface drain, these can run about $50. You will also need solid polypropylene drain pipe, dry concrete, pipe connectors, pea pebbles, leveling sand, PVC solvent cement, self-tapping screws, a shovel, and a level.

For more experienced DIYers out there, some of these will already be in your toolbox. Still, for a small area near the garage or patio, the costs are not bad in the least consider what it can prevent.

Before you can get your channel drain set, you must first remove some of the concrete or bricks in the desired area. Bricks are much easier to remove but you have to get beneath the concrete in any event, so you may have to rent a small excavation tool.

When you get through the concrete, you should be met with soil. From here, it is time to put on your work boots and dig. Digging the trench is by far the most labor-intensive aspect of the entire operation. You might be able to rent a tool that makes the job easier, but there is really only so much help that you can get here.

Digging up dry soil is always tougher than damp or wet soil. It probably couldn’t hurt to employ a friend or family member to assist with the manual labor here. Dig your trench around 10-12 inches in depth before moving on to the next step.

With the trench fully dug, it is time to connect your polypropylene drain to the channel drain. To do this, you will need the aforementioned self-tapping screws and PVC solvent cement. When the pipe is connected, level the area where the drain is going to be laid.

It may help to lay down pea pebbles and a layer of sand in order to give the drain a proper place to sit. Use your level to ensure that the drain is at a slight angle so that gravity can do its thing. Make sure that the angle runs downward and away from your home.

You can opt to cover the channel drain with duct tape to keep it protected from your quick-dry concrete. You don’t want to get any inside of the channel drain while setting it in place.

Now that the channel drain is in the proper position, it is time to set it into place permanently. The dry cement that you purchased earlier will come in handy here. Fast-setting concrete can be both a blessing and a curse. You won’t have to wait long for it to dry, but if the channel drain shifts, you may be working under the gun.

Be sure to mix thoroughly so that you get an even consistency in the concrete. It may take a little bit of trial and error, adding more water and stirring. When you are ready, pour the concrete around the channel drain.

Use a trowel to smooth the area evenly. If the mixture begins to set while you are still working, add a little bit of water and distribute with your trowel. You won’t get it completely smooth, so determine what is acceptable to you. Just make sure that there are no leaves, sticks, or other debris that can fall into the concrete.

This comes in two steps. One, you have to set the concrete around the tops of the support forms. This will create an even surface around the trench opening. Allow it time to dry properly before moving onto the trench itself.

When ready, start pouring the trench concrete. Ensure that the trench walls are completely stable before pouring the trench cement. Vibrate the concrete to remove any air bubbles that may become trapped on the surface during the pouring process.

Smooth everything out to ensure that the surface is as even as it can be. Finally, remove your forms from the set concrete. With the concrete now solidified, they are no longer needed and your trench is ready to go.